Tales of the East: Insight into Naga Jewellery Traditions

Jewellery is not just used an accessory for adornment but also has many beliefs associated with it that carry a strong sense of identity for the tribal culture and heritage of the state of Nagaland.

A mountainous state with a pleasant climate almost all year round, 20% of the total area of Nagaland is covered with forest. It is also known as Nagaland based on the belief that it is the land of the warrior Naga clan located in the North-eastern part of India. Since time immemorial Nagas have used only indigenous and natural things to produce everything (including their traditional ornaments) and hardly pollute their environment. Therefore, the state is considered to be one of the most protected and safe biological ecosystems in existence.

The state has inhabitants of 16 official tribes, and each tribe has its own unique culture, reflected in their fascinating lifestyles, beliefs, clothing, and necklaces and beads that they are known for. The Naga people of Northeast India and Northwest Burma comprise of a variety of different tribes, united under the name ‘Naga’. The word Naga is derived from the Burmese word ‘Naka’, meaning people with earrings. Angami, Kuki, Ao, Kachari, Mikir, Garo, Sumi, and Koyank are the foremost tribal communities of Nagaland. For the Nagas, their ornamentation is not just an accessory – they are a part of the wearer’s identity and that of the tribe to which the wearer belongs. They are known for the jewellery they wear and the culture they follow.

Representation through jewellery occurs in fascinating ways; for instance, the Konyak warrior tribals wear a brass trophy head necklace as a declaration of bravery, one brass head for each of the enemies they (or their ancestors) have personally beheaded. The Konyaks are seen to represent the headhunting era, as the practice was a strong part of their warrior tradition and continues to set them apart from the rest of the tribes of Northeast India. The belief was that the head holds all spiritual divinity in a body, the capture of which is a matter of prestige, serving as a way to secure the victim as a slave in the afterlife. They also represented manhood and were believed to bestow the warrior with wealth and the strength of the vanquished soul. Upon the coming of age, men were required to hunt their first head, following which they were allowed to pick a bride. Territorial conflicts between rival tribes and villages were resolved through battle and the Konyaks beheaded their enemies and brought back the severed heads as trophies in a specially designed basket. Those heads were then proudly showcased on the walls and doorways of the warriors, indicating the power of the warrior tribe and building to become a collective totem.

Both Naga men and women love to enhance their beauty with rich and vibrant tribal jewellery. Their love for colour and design is evident in the way these pieces are created, which reflect the synergistic relationship of humankind and nature. They are crafted with a variety of beads, feathers, brass, bronze, shells, claws, wood, glass, bone, precious stone, boar tusk, claws, horns and ivory. Such components are also regarded as currency in and of themselves. Traditional Naga ornaments are large and bold, where each piece of their jewellery is unique in its customs, traditions, accompanying attire, and symbolic of the land’s ancient heritage.

The Konyak collar is skillfully made using ancient deomani glass beads that are short, tubular or cylindrical, and adorned with mini brass heads. The collar serves as a symbolic descriptor of the wearer’s tribal orientation and social status. A Konyak man’s status is derived from how often he and his forefathers hosted lavish feasts, his prowess in warfare, how many heads he has taken, and in some areas, how many extramarital affairs he could boast. Wearing tiger teeth symbolizes the courage of men who have hunted and exterminated tigers. Red beads in a collar indicate danger, blood and flame.

The origin of Naga beads is not known, though it has been written about extensively. Naga people consider beads to be talismans, equivalent in value to gems. The beads are entwined in cultural practices and celebrations to date because Nagas believe that the beads contain all prayers that are made and sustained under the gleaming mountain sun. Among the Nagas, necklaces that are thick with many strands are ordinarily worn by womenfolk. They believed that the thicker the neckpiece, the higher the presumed wealth of the wearer and her family.

The Kuki tribe has its own special designs for their jewellery, said to be inspired by snake patterns. A Kuki folktale tells of a demonic serpent that loved a maiden. Charmed by her beauty, and the beauty of everything she made, he would visit her on the banks of the river to watch her weave, and let her watch him, his exquisite movements and patterns. From the willingness of the snake and the inspired hands of the maiden- was born the practice of using snake scale patterns in weaving and jewellery. One of these is called the Ponmongvom pattern, and it is said that the maiden, finally wizened and old, died weaving that very same pattern.

The dazzling ornaments are ingrained in the traditional attires, artistic styles and performances. Naga folk tales and songs are infused with symbolic emphasis on the motifs and patterns of the jewellery, which contain rich narratives and blessings from their ancestors. The original format of jewellery design has been preserved by ethnic tribes and still have a distinct rustic and earthy charm.

Men wear jewellery made of boars’ tusk and deer teeth to flaunt their courage, determination and hunting skills. They also wear beaded belts, neck pieces, cuffs, chest cross bands, kilts, cord belts, anklets, armlets and earrings, and carry fur machetes, spears and cases, some specially made of ivory or brass. Though the ornaments are precious for a variety of reasons already mentioned, especially to receive or pass on as heirlooms, they are inherently designed in a way that is practical. For example, the cane or brass leg rings are worn over the knees to climb the vast and rich trees with ease.

The ornaments of Naga women are simple, elegant and beautiful. Womenfolk don’t hunt, so instead of animal-based jewellery, they prefer to adorn themselves with the beautiful Naga beaded jewellery embellished with stone, brass, ivory and shells. Typically, earrings are created with a tuft of cotton wool, red paper or anything else that strikes the individual’s fancy.

The women folk also wear huge neck pieces, armlets, waistline pieces, beaded shawls, medallions and conch jewellery, and use iron walking sticks. Traditionally, ornaments are considered to be the only hereditary asset of a Naga woman. A mother’s ornaments are passed on to her daughter in the form of a wedding gift or a shared property after her demise.

The renowned Hornbill Festival is glorious in how it brings all these traditionally diverse tribes together as one, presenting them as a single entity. This gala is named after the Indian Hornbill, a unique and powerful bird that occupies a central role in much of the state’s folklore and tales. Traditional arts, crafts and ornaments play an essential part in making this carnival a success. As an observer, one might notice how each tribe’s individuality is still honoured, each one distinguishable by the stories woven by their bodies, creations, inheritances and narratives.